Anchovies: Is there a more divisive ingredient in the kitchen? Cilantro is probably neck and neck, but I'm here to tell you everything you need to know about anchovies. My hope is that with a little more information, you will come to embrace them, and not reject them out of hand. I'm even going to let you in on a little secret about anchovies: You most likely already have them in your kitchen and probably use them frequently…read on to see what I mean.
What Are Anchovies?
Anchovies are members of the family Engraulidae; they are from approximately 140 species and are called "forage fish." This simply means that they are small fish that are foraged by larger fish, sea birds, and marine mammals. The Indian, Atlantic, and Pacific oceans — as well as the Black and Mediterranean seas — are home to the world's supply of anchovies. While these tiny fish are delicious fresh from the water, most of us are more familiar with the canned variety. Because of their small size, the bones can be (and are) eaten. And when cooked, the canned anchovies, bones and all, will almost completely dissolve or "melt," leaving only the flavor.
What Do Anchovies Taste Like?
And here we come to the question that divides many people. Contrary to what you might assume, anchovies cooked into a dish do not taste fishy. They add a salty punch and a flavor that has led to their being classified as an "umami bomb" by many. Umami is often referred to as the fifth taste—it accents and complements sweet, savory, salty, and bitter flavors. And all umami really means is a deeply savory, meaty, even faintly earthy flavor. It also comes from mushrooms, meats, and cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano. That being the case, I'm convinced that the aversion that many "anchovy haters" express stems from an early experience with whole anchovies laid out on a badly made pizza. When well integrated into a dish, anchovies simply make the dish taste "more" like what it is, rather than stand out as a separate fishy taste.
How to Use Anchovies
There are a myriad of ways to use anchovies in the kitchen. I think my favorite has to be simply mincing them and effectively melting them into the onions before adding tomatoes to create a sauce for pasta or a pizza. A few can also be incorporated with the aromatics before adding beef or lamb to your pot for a stew. And let us not forget the delicious "warm bath" that is bagna cauda. Another personal favorite in my house is mixing minced anchovy into olive tapenade — it's incredibly easy to make, and impossible to stop eating.
Now, I will admit, (especially) if I know I have self-professed anchovy haters at the table, I have been known to sneak one or two into things like pasta sauces so I can try to convert them. That said, it is crucial to note that there is a difference between disliking anchovies and being allergic to anchovies, and you should always make certain that any anchovy-averse dinner guests do not have an allergy before trying to "put one over" on them.
Does Caesar Salad Have Anchovies?
It may shock you to hear that no, the original Caesar salad did not include anchovies. (More on that below.) These days, however, most Caesar salads do contain anchovies in the creamy dressing. The umami flavor is, at this point, considered integral to the iconic dish.
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Are Sardines and Anchovies the Same?
Although they are both smaller fish, sardines and anchovies are not the same fish. They are entirely different from one another. Sardines are larger and much milder tasting fish and are not used to flavor dishes in the same way that anchovies are. I've heard it said that the reason we think that many people associate the two is because we most often see both in cans, sitting next to one another on grocery store shelves.
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Substitutes for Anchovies
Okay, revisiting the matter of anchovies and Caesar dressing: The reason we began tying anchovies to Caesar is because the original Caesar salad contained the best possible substitutes for anchovies — Worcestershire sauce. And the reason Worcestershire is such a great substitute is because one of the main ingredients is (surprise!) anchovies. So technically, you could argue that I lied in saying that the legendary salad didn't originally contain anchovies.
Another convenient anchovy substitute: fish sauce. A few drops of fish sauce will bring the umami kick without all of the other flavors present in Worcestershire sauce. But if using fish sauce, remember to start with only a drop or two; otherwise, it can overpower.
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Are Anchovies Healthy?
There are certainly a few sides to this question. As so-called "oily" fish, anchovies are quite rich in omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3s are very beneficial in terms of healthy joints, mental health, and maintaining good cholesterol levels. However, most anchovies that we consume are packed in oil and/or a lot of salt. If the oil is olive, all well and good. And salt is not an inherently "bad" thing if we don't overdo it. The good news is that most of us, when we consume anchovies, consume small enough amounts that the oil and salt likely aren't a huge deal. Additionally, anchovies contain numerous other vitamins and minerals that can help our bodies — such as vitamin A, selenium, calcium, and iron. All in all, anchovies fit nicely into a well-rounded, healthy diet.
Clearly, my recommendation is that if you're not already a believer, do at least give anchovies a try. The easiest way around a squeamish reaction to these little beauties is to cook them down while making a sauce. I can guarantee that your tomato sauce will not taste at all like fishy; rather, it will taste surprisingly fuller, deeper, and more savory. After you've passed that test, you can move on to adding one or two to salad dressings. And when you realize that you're really starting to get into this anchovy thing, you may be ready to move up to the incredible bread treat, Pissaladiere. It's a pizza-like dish topped with caramelized onions, olives, herbs, and whole anchovies. In other words, it's an extraordinary creation that will announce your graduation from anchovy hater to anchovy lover.
I reiterate: They're good for you, not fishy, inexpensive, and an incredible way to enrich the flavor of all sorts of dishes. Once you're on board, you'll never step off the anchovy train.
